Here are some pictures of how my remote head is attached to my jib arm
I drilled a 55/64" hole in the steel tube and put a skate
bearing on each side.
I secured the bearings with Loctite 680
I ran a 5/16" bolt through the head and through the bearings.
There is a washer
on each side between the bearing and the remote head to act as spacers.
These allow the bearings to spin freely without rubbing on anything.
The tall angle bracket has a turnbuckle mounted. I don't recommend
attaching the turnbuckle
this way because the eye bolt has bent terribly over time. Instead I would suggest
looping
a piece of cable through the angle bracket and attaching the other end to a
turnbuckle.
On the caster frame is attached another angle bracket. Loop
another piece of cable
through it and attach the end to the turnbuckle.
When setting up the jib, simply adjust the turnbuckle until
the head is level with
the ground. The cable will keep it even.
I use a bogen 3061 tripod to mount my jib to.
I've also attached a piece of cork gasket material to the base
of the caster
frame. I cut a large hole in the center of the cork so it can fit around the
bearings inside. The purpose is to alleviate the wobble of the caster frame.
I have a remote head design plan made up. It is different than
what I have built.
Please note that it is a theoretical plan I came up with to cut down on
costs and to utilize a ground frequency rather than air. A few people have used
the design and said
it works fine, except for one modification you should be aware of.
Here is an excerpt from "docwisdom":
By the way, the wiring for your head plans works fine. All you
have to do is make the small POT outboard and dont bother wiring the
large POT. It works 100% without the speed controllers.
Download the PLANS
If anyone is interested, I have an old set of jib plans that
uses pulleys, no remote head.
Someone might be able to get some ideas from it: